How to Sew Leather With a Standard Sewing Machine

From rugged wallets to elegant handbags, leather items exude both style and durability. The thought of sewing leather projects always intrigued me, but like many, I believed it required an expensive, industrial-grade sewing machine.

However, my journey into leathercraft taught me that it’s entirely possible to sew leather using a standard sewing machine.

Can You Sew Leather With a Regular Sewing Machine?

As you might have suspected, it is possible to sew leather using a regular sewing machine. As a hobbyist or a regular home sewer who wants to practice the occasional sewing of leather, you don’t have to purchase an industrial machine for leather sewing purposes only. It can easily be done on your regular sewing machine.

All you have to do is to make sure your sewing machine is equipped with a varying straight stitch length and also make use of leather-effective needles. Three presser feet are perfect for sewing leather on your regular sewing machine.

These presser feet ensure the sewing process is less sticky and ensure a perfect sewing result.  One of these is the roller foot which comes with built-in mini rolling pins which prevent the foot from getting stuck with the leather during the sewing process.

The Teflon foot is another perfect option as it also will get stuck to your leather. You can also make use of the walking foot which is accustomed to almost all the best leather sewing machines. The walking foot is designed in two halves and moves in a fixed walking motion to prevent the leather from getting stuck.

How to Sew Leather With a Standard Sewing Machine

While many assume that sewing leather requires an industrial-grade machine, it is indeed possible to work with leather using a standard sewing machine.

Materials and Tools You’ll Need:

  • Leather: Choose the type and thickness of leather that suits your project. Thin leather is easier to work with when you’re just starting.
  • Sewing Machine: Any standard sewing machine can be used, but you may find it easier with a heavy-duty model.
  • Needles: Opt for a heavy-duty or leather needle, as they are designed to handle the thickness of leather.
  • Thread: Use a strong, durable thread that matches the colour of your leather.
  • Waxed Paper or Teflon Foot: These can help reduce friction between the leather and the sewing machine’s presser foot.
  • Cutting Tools: You may need a rotary cutter, leather scissors, or an X-Acto knife to cut the leather.
  • Ruler, Cutting Mat, and Clips: These tools will help you measure, cut, and secure your leather pieces.

Step 1: Prepare Your Leather

Before you begin sewing, it’s essential to prepare your leather properly:

  • Cut your leather pieces: Measure and cut your leather to the desired size and shape using a ruler, cutting mat, and appropriate cutting tools. Be sure to mark any stitching lines or patterns you want to follow.
  • Clips or pins: Use clips or pins to hold your leather pieces together, ensuring they don’t shift during sewing.

Step 2: Thread and Needle Selection

  • Needle choice: Install a heavy-duty or leather needle in your sewing machine. These needles are designed to handle leather’s thickness.
  • Thread choice: Choose a strong thread, preferably a polyester or nylon thread, which can withstand the demands of leatherwork. Make sure the thread color matches your leather.

Step 3: Adjust Your Sewing Machine

Properly adjusting your sewing machine is crucial for sewing leather successfully:

  • Tension: Adjust your machine’s thread tension according to your sewing machine’s manual. It’s essential to find the right balance to prevent thread breakage.
  • Stitch Length: Use a longer stitch length (around 3mm to 4mm) to ensure your stitches penetrate the leather effectively.
  • Presser Foot: A Teflon foot or a piece of waxed paper placed between the presser foot and the leather can help reduce friction. This is especially important when working with sticky or textured leather.

Step 4: Test Stitching

Before you start your actual project, it’s a good idea to test your sewing machine’s settings and practice on scrap pieces of leather. This will help you make any necessary adjustments and get comfortable with the process.

Step 5: Sewing Leather

Now, let’s start sewing your leather:

  • Start slowly: Begin sewing your leather project slowly, especially if you’re new to working with leather. This allows you to control the stitching and maintain accuracy.
  • Backstitching: Reinforce the beginning and end of your stitching by backstitching a few stitches. This helps prevent the thread from unravelling.
  • Guiding the leather: Use your hands to guide the leather as it feeds through the machine, keeping it aligned with the stitching line.
  • Avoid forcing the leather: Don’t push or pull the leather through the machine. Let the machine’s feed dogs do the work.

Step 6: Finishing

Once you’ve sewn your leather project, it’s time to finish it:

  • Trim excess thread: Trim any excess thread carefully to create a neat finish.
  • Clean your machine: Leather can leave residue on your sewing machine, so be sure to clean it thoroughly after each leather sewing session.

What Are The Seams That Can Be Used For Sewing Leather?

Taking note of the construction process is vital. Hand-sewn leather has a different look from machine-sewn ones. You will be opting for the lock stitch pattern which makes use of a needle, an upper thread, bobbin thread, and a hole rather than the saddle stitch with two needles, two lines of thread, and a hole.

This stitch pattern allows you to work with different seam options when sewing leather. A few of the recommended options include. 

Open Seam

The regular open seam gets pressed open after being sewn. This seam can easily be sewn using a binder and clips. When making use of the open seam, the piece of leather within the edge and the edges are more visible.

Lapped Seam

When using the lapped seam, another leather piece gets laid on the first of the leather to create an overlap and gets stitched down. This seam option is crafty and the binder caps are useless. A leather glue or cement is your best option when using this method. 

Welt Seam

A perfect seam option for heavy fabrics is a plain seam that produces a normal stitch. Its seam allowance gets moved to a side and gets stitched down. You can make use of the binder clips while sewing the first seam to ensure the leather stays in the perfect position. 

What Is The Ideal Stitch Length For Sewing Leather?

The ideal stitch length for sewing leather typically falls in the range of 3mm to 4mm. This length provides a good balance between strength and aesthetic appeal, and it’s a guideline that many leather crafters find effective.

Here’s why this stitch length range is recommended:

  • Strength: Longer stitches are inherently stronger because they distribute the stress along a longer section of the thread. In the case of leather, which can be thicker and more substantial than fabric, longer stitches are more durable and less likely to break under stress.
  • Aesthetic Appeal: A stitch length of 3mm to 4mm strikes a good balance between strength and appearance. Stitches that are too close together can create a perforated look, while stitches that are too far apart may weaken the seam. This range maintains a neat and professional appearance while ensuring the seam’s integrity.
  • Penetration: Leather is not as forgiving as fabric, and the stitches need to penetrate the material effectively to hold it together securely. The recommended stitch length helps achieve this by allowing the needle to penetrate the leather and create a sturdy bond.

It’s worth noting that the ideal stitch length may vary depending on the type and thickness of the leather you’re working with. Thinner leather may require slightly shorter stitches, while thicker or more robust leather can handle longer stitches. As you gain experience in working with different types of leather, you may adjust the stitch length to suit the specific project.

How Do I Prevent The Leather From Sticking To The Presser Foot Or Machine?

It comes with its own set of challenges, including the issue of leather sticking to the presser foot and the sewing machine.

Choose the Right Presser Foot

Selecting the appropriate presser foot for leather sewing can make a world of difference. Here are some options:

  • Teflon Foot: A Teflon presser foot has a non-stick surface, allowing the leather to glide without friction. It’s an excellent choice for many leather types.
  • Roller Foot: A roller presser foot features small rollers that help the leather move smoothly through the machine, reducing sticking.

Waxed Paper or Tissue Paper

Placing a sheet of waxed paper or tissue paper between the leather and the presser foot can act as a temporary non-stick barrier. As you sew, the paper will easily tear away, leaving your stitches unaffected.

Adjust the Presser Foot Pressure

Most sewing machines allow you to adjust the presser foot pressure. Reducing the pressure slightly can prevent the foot from pressing too hard against the leather, thus reducing sticking. Refer to your sewing machine’s manual for guidance on how to make this adjustment.

Leather Lubricant

Leather lubricants or conditioners can help reduce friction. Apply a small amount to the leather’s underside, and it should slide more smoothly under the presser foot.

Use a Walking Foot

A walking foot, also known as a dual-feed foot, can be a game-changer for sewing leather. It has feed dogs on both the top and bottom, which work together to feed the leather evenly. This minimizes sticking and uneven stitching.

Stitch Slowly and Steadily

Leather is less forgiving than fabric, so stitching slowly and steadily can help you maintain control and avoid sticking. Rushing the sewing process can lead to uneven stitches and a higher likelihood of the leather sticking to the machine.

Maintain Your Machine

Regularly clean and lubricate your sewing machine. Clean out any accumulated dust and debris, and oil the necessary parts following your machine’s manual. A well-maintained machine is less likely to cause sticking.

What Type Of Thread Is Best For Sewing Leather With A Standard Sewing Machine?

When sewing leather with a standard sewing machine, it’s crucial to select a thread that can withstand the demands of working with this sturdy material. The best threads for sewing leather with a standard machine are typically strong and durable, capable of navigating through thick layers without fraying or breaking.

Polyester and nylon threads stand out as ideal choices for leather sewing. These synthetic threads offer exceptional strength and resilience, making them well-suited for the challenges posed by sewing leather.

Polyester threads provide excellent resistance to UV rays, moisture, and mildew, making them a durable choice for leather items that might be exposed to various environmental conditions. Nylon threads are similarly strong and resistant to wear and tear, ensuring longevity and stability in leather projects.

Both polyester and nylon threads come in various thicknesses and are available in a broad range of colors, allowing for versatility in matching or contrasting with different leather hues. When selecting the thread, consider the thickness of the leather and the type of seam you aim to create. Thicker leather may require a heavier thread, while finer leather might be better suited for a lighter thread.


Remember that practice is your greatest ally. Your first attempts may not yield perfection, but with each project, you’ll gain confidence and finesse in handling leather with your standard sewing machine.

Whether you’re crafting leather wallets, stylish bags, or custom accessories, you’re now equipped with the knowledge and skills to bring your leather sewing aspirations to life.

As you continue your journey in leather sewing, don’t forget to explore, experiment, and express your unique style through your creations. Seek inspiration from the wealth of leatherworking projects available and take on new challenges to expand your skills.